The Old New Mexico - part 5

Of course, there is much more to see in the Indian pueblos of New Mexico than just churches and kivas. Pueblo tribes create amazing works of art, from dances to jewelry.

Dancers, Santa Clara Pueblo.

Dancers, Santa Clara Pueblo.

Each pueblo has dances on certain days of the year. Unlike in many other tribes, these ceremonies are not tourist- oriented.

Dancers, Santa Clara Pueblo.

Drummers, Santa Clara Pueblo.

Spectators, Santa Clara Pueblo.

Pueblo dances are wonderfully colorful. Most of them are open to visitors, and the dates of the events can be found at www.indianpueblo.org. But it's very unusual to see more than a dozen tourists, and sometimes you are the only nonnative guest. Late December and early January are the best time to see the dances.

Spectators, Santa Clara Pueblo.

Young dancer, Santa Clara Pueblo.

Young dancer, Santa Clara Pueblo.

Young children always take part in dances - it's an important way of learning the tradition. Some kids like it a lot, others don't.

Young dancers, Santa Clara Pueblo.

Harvest Dance, Albuquerque.
Harvest Dance, Albuquerque.	Each of the 19 pueblos has its own versions of Harvest, Corn, Eagle, Cloud, Basket, Buffalo, and Deer Dances. In addition, most have their own dances, such as Turtle Dance of Taos, Comanche Dance of northern pueblos, and so on. These dances are beautiful ceremonies performed by up to 200 people.	Harvest Dance, Albuquerque.
Eagle Dance, Albuquerque.

Spectators, Santa Clara Pueblo.

Unfortunately, photographing or videotaping any kind of pueblo ceremonies is usually strictly prohibited. Small teams of dancers regularly perform at Indian Pueblo Cultural Center in Albuquerque, where taking photos and video is allowed. Photos above show dancers from Laguna Pueblo.

Spectators, Santa Clara Pueblo.

Dancers, Santa Clara Pueblo.

Dancers, Santa Clara Pueblo.

The most impressive dance I've seen so far was Bow and Arrows Dance in San Felipe Pueblo. It is a very militant dance, performed by men only, and visitors are not particularly welcome - if you manage to get there, don't stay too long. No pictures, of course.

Dancers, Santa Clara Pueblo.

Jemez Pueblo pottery.

Clay cat, Zia Pueblo (x2).

My favorite pueblo art is pottery. Pueblo Indians (and the Hopi of Arizona) create some of the most beautiful pottery in the world. Every gift shop in this region is like a small museum (and, unlike museums, most gift shops allow photography).

Lizard is a symbol of good luck.

Pottery, Acoma Pueblo.

Pottery, Pojoaque Pueblo.

Pottery, Santa Clara Pueblo.

Most of those beautiful items are very expensive (even fake Chinese-made ones aren't cheap). Local fairs during holiday dances and other ceremonies sometimes have better deals.

Pottery, Santa Clara Pueblo.

Kachina dolls, Zuni Pueblo.

Kachina doll, Zuni Pueblo.

Another famous local artform is kachina dolls. The real kachinas are sacred items used in religious ceremonies. The ones sold to collectors differ slightly from the real ones and aren't sacred (you have to be an expert to tell the difference). They look like dancers wearing traditional masks and costumes. Mask-shaped earrings, Zuni Pueblo.

Kachina doll, Zuni Pueblo.

El Morro rock, now part of El Morro National Monument.

For centuries, travelers on the ancient east-west trail through New Mexico have left graffiti on El Morro rock, a nice roadside stop with permanent water source. In 1807, the first of many inscriptions in English appeared there - a sign of changes to come.

Moonrise over El Morro National Monument.

Native American (center) and Old Spanish inscriptions, El Morro.

19th century Anglo-American inscriptions, El Morro.	In 1846-1854, the Southwest became US territory.	19th century Anglo-American inscriptions, El Morro.

Plate, Zuni Pueblo.

Part 6

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