The Old New Mexico - part 4

The most surprising and well-hidden treasures of New Mexico are pueblo churches.

Winter in Sandia Pueblo.

Winter in Isleta Pueblo.

Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe mission, c. 1706, Zuni Pueblo.

Almost each one of the 19 existing pueblos has one or two of them, but they are virtually unknown to the outside world. This site is the only online resource with photos of all pueblo churches.

Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe mission, c. 1706, Zuni Pueblo.

Churches in Acoma Pueblo, 19th century, Acoma and Acomita villages.

San Fransisco de Asis church, c. 1974, Nambe Pueblo.

A few of these churches are somewhat remote, but others, such as the ones at Sandia, Isleta, Laguna, San Felipe and Santo Domingo pueblos, are located just off interstate freeways not far from Albuquerque.

San Geronimo church, c. 1850, Taos Pueblo.

San Jose de Laguna mission and Laguna Pueblo on Christmas Eve.

Santa Clara church, c. 1918, Santa Clara Pueblo.

The best time of the year to visit the pueblos is on Christmas Eve, when most churches and many houses are beautifully decorated with long rows of luminarios (little candles in paper bags). Wait until 10 pm to see it all.

Santa Clara church with luminarios and cemetry, Santa Clara Pueblo.

San Jose de Laguna mission, c. 1706, Laguna Pueblo.

San Diego church, c. 1880, Tesuque Pueblo.

In part these churches are so little-known because most pueblos don't allow outsiders to take photos or even sketches (for that reason, some pictures on this page are not photos, but digitally created images).

San Lorenzo church, c. 1776, Picuris Pueblo.

Laguna Pueblo and Mount Taylor.

San Felipe mission, c. 1736, San Felipe Pueblo.

Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion mission, c. 1750, Zia Pueblo.

Well, at least they are easy to see. Now all but two pueblos are open to visitors for most of the year, although Taos and Acoma charge an entrance fee. San Buenaventura mission, c. 1770, Cochiti Pueblo.

Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion mission, close-up of the facade.

San Augustine mission, c. 1613-1710, Isleta Pueblo.

San Jose de Padua church, c. 1864, Sandia Pueblo.

Visiting all 19 pueblos is an adventure in itself. Some are relatively modernized, others are very conservative, and many combine modern activities such as gambling business with surprisingly traditional lifestyle.

San Jose de Padua church, c. 1864, Sandia Pueblo.

San Jose de Padua church at sunset.

San Ildefonso church, c. 1968, San Ildefonso Pueblo.

Many pueblos have not only beautifully restored their churches, but built or re-built traditional kivas. Today's Pueblo religion is still a combination of Christianity with colorful traditional beliefs.

Entrance to a recently built kiva, San Ildefonso Pueblo.

Santa Ana church, c. 1750, Santa Ana Pueblo.

Santo Domingo church, c. 1899, Santo Domingo Pueblo.

Sacred Mesa near Acoma once had a pueblo on top. During a 16th century storm, the trail up collapsed, and most residents starved to death.

There were once more than 100 pueblos in New Mexico. What is left is a tantalizing glimpse of one of the most colorful and original cultures in the Americas, better preserved than most other native cultures north of Mexico.

Traditional ovens are still widely used in almost all pueblos for making "Indian" bread. San Ildefonso Pueblo.

Interior of San Jose de Laguna mission church, c. 1706, Laguna Pueblo. Note peyote cactus in baby Jesus's hand.

Interior, San Jose de Laguna mission church, c. 1706, Laguna Pueblo.

Other present-day native cultures of New Mexico are very different from the pueblo world.

Church sign, Santa Clara Pueblo.

Ladder, Santa Clara Pueblo.

Part 5

Back to Part 3