Part 9. Kyoto

When you walk out of the central railway station complex, Kyoto seems to be just another large Japanese city: an endless labyrinth of identical-looking streets and tall concrete buildings. But it is the country's most interesting place.

Yasaka-jinja shrine, Kyoto.

Roof detail, Higashi Hongan-ji temple, Kyoto.

Gate, Higashi Hongan-ji temple, Kyoto.

Kyoto was the capital of Japan in 794-1185 and 1333-1600, and the residence of the imperial family until 1868. (Kamakura was the capital in 1185-1333, and Edo/Tokyo since 1600). The old Imperial Palace, Nijo-jo castle and a few temples are in the central part of the city, but it's the outlying areas where most of its cultural heritage is located. Hills to the southwest, southeast, and particularly east of the modern Kyoto are dotted with more than two thousand temples and shrines, many of them connected by nice quiet walkways along narrow streets and small rivers.

Roof detail, Nishi Hongan-ji temple, Kyoto.

Gate lamp, Higashi Hongan-ji temple, Kyoto.

Light fixture, Chion-in temple, Kyoto.

Water faucet, Kyoto.

Kyoto is the only place where I would consider a career in plumbing. Parts of the city are so full of art scattered in the most unexpected places that you can spend a week exploring just one street.

Plumbing fixture, Kyoto.

Gion at night.

Streets of Gion.

Gion district near the eastern hills is full of tiny teahouses, shops, and restaurants, ranging from expensive places with geisha parties to cheap working- class joints (often with better food). Some are 200-300 years old.

Priest in a small temple, Gion.

Gion streets.

Pagoda of To-ji temple, Kyoto.

Gion is the best part of Kyoto to walk around at night. Unless you are invited, your chances of seeing a geisha party are limited (even if your budget isn't). Interior of Sanjusangen-do temple, Kyoto. However, on New Year's eve some local hostels have small parties for their guests, and geishas occasionally bring maiko (apprentices) to them for English practice - a lot of fun for everyone involved.

This is the tallest pagoda in Japan (57 m).

Gion at night. Note the light installed under the bridge on the left photo.

Kiyomizu-dera, Kyoto.

I think the best place to start exploring Kyoto from is Kiyomizu-dera temple. It's located on a forested mountain slope with great views of the city. The main hall is hanging on stilts off a vertical cliff. Best viewed in early morning, before panting tourist hordes arrive.

Kiyomizu-dera, Kyoto.

Side pavilion, Kiyomizu-dera, Kyoto.

The main hall, Kiyomizu-dera, Kyoto.

Temple roof, Kiyomizu-dera.

Maple forests around the temple were colorful even in mid-winter. I can only imagine how beautiful they are in October - the best time to visit Kyoto. Cherry-blooming season in April should also be nice.

Looking down from Kiyomizu-dera.

View of Kyoto from Kiyomizu-dera.

Part 10: Kyoto (continued)

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