The Andes Part 6: Tiahuanaco

The Bolivian Altiplano is a cold, dry, inhospitable high-altitude desert, but it is home to a wonderful variety of flora and fauna, and to some of the world's most ancient and colorful cultures.

Roadside market, Bolivian Atiplano.

Bolivian Altiplano near La Paz in July.

The entire plateau, from northwestern Argentina to central Peru, is like an archaeological museum, with countless ruins, ancient roads, irrigation systems, and burial sites. Some date back to the Inca Empire, others are much older.

Modern fields overlaying ancient irrigation systems, Bolivia.

Town of Tiahuanaco, Bolivia.

View of Tiahuanaco ruins from Acapana Pyramid.

Wall of Templete Subterraneo, Tiahuanaco.

One of the oldest and greatest ancient cities is Tiahuanaco (pronounced Tiwanaku), founded in appr. 200 BC on the shores of Lake Titicaca.

Wall of Kalasasaya, Tiahuanaco.

Wall of Kalasasaya, Tiahuanaco.

El Fraile (Stela 5), with an archaeological dig in the background.

The city became a center of a great civilization in the 8th century AD, but was abandoned around AD1200, most likely due to climate aridization an the lake receding by almost 20 km.

Statue, Tiahuanaco.

View of Kalasasaya over Templete Subterraneo, Tiahuanaco.

Part of Puerta del Sol, Tiahuanaco.

Detail of a statue, Tiahuanaco.

Even after centuries of looting, the city is an impressive sight, with recently restored temples, statues, and a partially preserved pyramid. Some stone blocks weigh up to 440 tons, and figure prominently in various UFO theories.

Monolito Ponce (Stela 8), Tiahuanaco.

Puerta de la Luna and Kerikala, Tiahuanaco.

Statue, Tiahuanaco Museum.

Thousands of priceless art objects were looted from the city over the centuries. Many were lost, others can now be seen in museums and private collections all over the world. Skulls from local tombs, Tiahuanaco Museum. Fortunately, the on-site museum has a very interesting selection. Other good collections of Tiahuanaco art can be found in museums of La Paz and Cochabamba.

Monolito Bennetto Pachamama, Tiah. Museum.

Ancient pottery at Tiahuanaco Museum.

American kestrel (Falco sparverius), Tiahuanaco.

Tiahuanaco is just an hour and a half from La Paz, and makes a good starting point for a day trip to Lake Titicaca. Like most of the Altiplano, it has some interesting wildlife - watch for wild Guinea pigs and other rodents living under stone slabs.

Cactus Opuntia subulata, Tiahuanaco.

Vermilion flycatcher (Pyrocephalus rubinus).			Lesser Guinea pig (Cavia nana), Tiahuanaco.
	Giant hummingbirds (Patagona gigas), Tiahuanaco.

			Lake Titicaca itself is one of the best birdwatching sites of the Altiplano, plus one of the world's best freshwater diving sites. Look for giant deepwater frogs (Telmatobius culeus), up to 50 cm/20" long.
	Black siskins (Carduelis atrata), Tiahuanaco.			Bar-winged cinclodes (Cinclodes fuscus), Tiahuanaco.

Lake Titicaca, Bolivia.

Morning fog over Lake Titicaca.

Andean coot (Fulica ardesiaca), Lake Titicaca.

The only endemic bird here is Titicaca flightless grebe (Rollandia microptera), but it's easy to see 30-40 other species in one day, including Andean gulls (right), which turn pinkish during the breeding season, ducks, coots, rails, and a lot of smaller birds. If you are not interested in birds, the views alone are worth the trip.

Andean gull (Larus serranus), Lake Titicaca.

Lake Titicaca, Bolivia.

Mountain caracara (Falcoboenus megalopterus), La Paz.

Mountains around the lake are surprisingly little visited. Young mountain caracara, Lake Titicaca. But they are also very interesting.

Mountain caracaras, Tiahuanaco.

The Andes near Lake Titicaca, Bolivia.

Part 7. La Paz

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